It’s a pleasant Tuesday night in early September, and the street outside the club is buzzing. Tables have been set up, a chatty crowd – with perhaps a disproportionate number of brawny, bearded men in black T-shirts – are tucking into beers and kebabs. Musicians play rembetiko. At the entrance to the road in old Nicosia (it’s a private road, so they’re able to cordon it off), two rows of
