Barcelona is a city of layers: the imposing Sagrada Familia, Gaudí’s surreal bursts of colour, and streets laid out with geometric precision. Direct flights from Cyprus now make it temptingly close, and after a visit or two, you will have strolled the Gothic Quarter, escaped the chaos of La Rambla, and dipped your toes at La Barceloneta. But what happens when the touristy checklist is done – or simply doesn’t
