A quiet Sunday morning, a small three-star hotel in Yermasoyia on the ‘wrong’, suburban side of the highway. A modest swimming pool, an importunate cat that jumps on our table – seeking food or friendship, who can say – a Sunday-morning vibe and a frank confession by the middle-aged man sitting opposite me:
“Even now,” says Martin Clark, “even now – I’m 63 – I split my life up into
